Technical matters for CVT owners

Lubricating the bearings

Lubricate footslider bearings and the bow sprit at a regular basis, especially after riding in the rain. As long as the bow sprit and the chrome coating is permanently lubricated, the lifespan is very long.
As soon as the outer bearing rings start to corrode, microscopic crater rims are present on the surface, which increases the wear and tear of the chrome on the bow sprit extremely. Because of sand and normal usage, micro holes show up in the chrome. As long as the bow sprit is permanently lubricated nothing will corrode and all is fine. But when the bow sprit is without any grease and for example is parked wet after a ride through salty, brine water, the steel under the chrome will rust and small rust blisters will form under the chrome layer. You will probably be able to continue for tens of thousands kilometres, but it will be noisy and will not run and look very nice...

Problems with tension of the bungee (elastic shock cord in the bow sprit)

Whilst using the rowingbike, it has come clear that the bungee in the bow sprit weakens rather much after some time. At a certain moment, for example after a year, the tension of the propulsion cable is so little that it looses all tension momentarily. This happens especially when making the Recovery stroke and manifests easiest in a high gear. This may result in a skidlike feeling when making the next stroke. The cable first slips a little along the Snek before regaining its tension again and starts propelling the rear wheel. In the worst case the cable may derail from the groove and from the Snek. Minimizing problems of the tension of the elastic is best accomplished by parking or storing the rowingbike in the lowest gear, thus getting the lowest possible tension in the bungee. When not using the rowingbike for a longer period, for example during the winter, it's best to completely untighten the shock cord.

Increasing the tension in the bungee

If the tension in the elastic is too low, it's easy to tighten the elastic again. Pull the loose end of the two dyneema cords, close to the head set on the left side, out of the bow sprit tube, and attach a thin piece of rope or iron wire to them, so you'll be able to put them back again afterwards. Let the two knots in the dyneema cord slide into the bowsprit and take the two ends of the Bungee out at the front of the bow sprit. Lay an extra knot in each dyneema cord. This results in more tension on the elastic. This way of increasing the tension can be done at least one time. It may be necessary to replace the whole piece of elastic after a year or so.

Tuning the commander cable to cable clamp (the wedge Housing at the footslider)

Tuning the cable to the cable clamp and making sure it runs smooth is very important. The inner cable and its casing should be replaced regularly, for example every year. When you notice that pushing the clutch button is hard, this may well be because of rust of the outer casing which grates along the cable inside it. Apart from heavy gear changing the opposite is also happening: the wedges need to practise a lot of force on the commandercable to be able to return to a fully locked situation. The wedges may not lock completely and the propulsion cable can be damaged. The wedges than do clamp the outer strands of the cable, but do not clamp the core of the cable sufficiently. The outer strands will then be pulled over the core strands and you can get deformation of the cable. In the worst case the cable starts slipping completely. This is something you don't want, it means replacing both cable and wedges.

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